A Journey Begins
Hello! I'm Mallikarjuna Mocharlla, originally from the southern part of India. In December 2024, I embarked on a journey that would leave a lasting impression on me - my first trip to Meghalaya. But before diving into the adventure, let me rewind a bit.
The Plan That Almost Didn't Happen
About three months before the trip, a close friend and I began planning a visit to his hometown in Meghalaya. We circled December 24th on our calendars, eager to spend fifteen days exploring the region. However, as often happens with corporate life, our leave plans hit a few snags. I had to cut my trip short, which cost me an extra ?10,000 in travel adjustments.
First Flight, First Impressions
Still, on the morning of the 24th, we set off from Bangalore International Airport. It was my first time at an airport, and I was awestruck. The scale, the energy - it all made me feel like my professional tax contributions were finally visible in action.
From Bangalore to Guwahati
Our boarding gate changed from D-6 to D-11 (classic), and we landed at Guwahati Airport. Compared to Bangalore's grandeur, Guwahati's airport felt modest - until I spotted a flight to Bangkok, confirming it was indeed international.
The Road to Shillong
We opted for a cab to Shillong instead of flying directly. My friend explained that while a cab from Guwahati costs around ?1,000 per person, a direct flight to Shillong would set us back ?5,000 each, plus an entry fee into the city. That settled it - Shillong Airport might be better suited as a museum.
A Chilly Welcome
We left Guwahati at 3 PM in 28?C weather and arrived at Shillong's Police Bazar in a brisk 11?C. The name "Police Bazar" has roots in its original purpose: a market for police officers, later opened to the public.
Arrival in Mawsynram
By 8:30 PM, we reached a village in the Mawsynram subdivision of East Khasi Hills. This was my friend's hometown. The temperature kept dropping, and as someone who uses a blanket even in South Indian summers, I was freezing.
A Warm Welcome
Upon arrival, I was welcomed with warmth - especially from my friend's mother, whose emotional greeting transcended language. I didn't speak Khasi, so I relied on gestures or my friend's translations throughout the trip.
Culture, Customs, and Kway
Life in Mawsynram is simple yet rich in tradition. Unlike the patriarchal norms I grew up with, here, the mother is the head of the household. Chewing betel leaf, or kway, is a cultural staple, governed by etiquette: never chew in front of elders, and never refuse if offered by one. My first try left me dizzy for 20 minutes - but I still brought some back home.
Dining the Khasi Way
Dining customs were different too. While I'm used to sitting cross-legged on the floor, here, meals are taken on small wooden stools. The food was mild, mostly soups with red rice. Since I don't eat all types of meat, the family kindly adjusted their cooking for me. My friend's family is large - nine siblings! - and according to local tradition, the youngest girl inherits the family property. It made me wonder if such customs could reduce inheritance disputes elsewhere.
Matrilineal Magic
In this matrilineal society, when a man marries, he moves into his wife's home and adopts her surname - an empowering reversal of norms I've known.
Christmas in the Hills
This village in Mawsynram is entirely Christian, and I encountered four denominations: Catholic, Presbyterian, Baptist, and one intriguingly referred to as "Trumpism." Even my friends back in Bangalore hadn't heard of that last one. On Christmas Eve, I attended a Presbyterian service. It was serene - no fanfare, just silence and reflection, broken only by a bell that reminded me of the Maxwell bell from The Vampire Diaries.
Sacred Peaks and Folklore
On Christmas morning, I experienced altitude sickness, but my friend's family was incredibly caring. The next day, we hiked to the sacred Lum Sawsymper mountain. Local lore warns that harming nature there brings misfortune. Every New Year's Day, villagers gather around it to cook, eat, and celebrate.
The Tale of Two Mountains
Across from it stands Lum Kyllang. According to legend, the two mountains once hurled rocks and mud at each other. Lum Sawsymper, still lush and green, contrasts sharply with the rocky Lum Kyllang - a visual echo of their mythical battle.
Into the Cave of Stories
We also explored the Synrang Kohlah cave, steeped in folklore. Before entering, visitors must write something with charcoal or lime to avoid being followed by a cave spirit. Naturally, we followed tradition.
Flavors of the Hills
The food in Mawsynram was hearty and comforting - red rice, potato soup with meat, and dried fish chutney, all cooked over wood fires. The momos in Shillong were a revelation, especially the sesame chutneys.
A Land of Waterfalls and Warmth
In the end, every home in this village tells a story. Water flows through every street, and waterfalls and dams dot the landscape. The people are strong, kind, and full of stories - of struggle, resilience, and joy. We visited breathtaking spots like the Seven Sisters Waterfalls, Sohra, Nathaniel Waterfall, and even a natural hot spring.
The Journey Home
On December 31st, we began our return to Guwahati. Our driver took a detour to drop off another passenger for a small fee, stretching our journey to 5.5 hours. Our return flight with Air India Express was delayed twice. Ironically, despite being more expensive than our outbound Air India flight, it offered no complimentary food and was stingy with water.
A Grateful Heart
Having Meghalaya as part of India is a gift. Having a friend from there - and the chance to experience it all firsthand - is a blessing I'll always cherish.
Hello! I'm Mallikarjuna Mocharlla, originally from the southern part of India. In December 2024, I embarked on a journey that would leave a lasting impression on me - my first trip to Meghalaya. But before diving into the adventure, let me rewind a bit.
The Plan That Almost Didn't Happen
About three months before the trip, a close friend and I began planning a visit to his hometown in Meghalaya. We circled December 24th on our calendars, eager to spend fifteen days exploring the region. However, as often happens with corporate life, our leave plans hit a few snags. I had to cut my trip short, which cost me an extra ?10,000 in travel adjustments.
First Flight, First Impressions
Still, on the morning of the 24th, we set off from Bangalore International Airport. It was my first time at an airport, and I was awestruck. The scale, the energy - it all made me feel like my professional tax contributions were finally visible in action.
From Bangalore to Guwahati
Our boarding gate changed from D-6 to D-11 (classic), and we landed at Guwahati Airport. Compared to Bangalore's grandeur, Guwahati's airport felt modest - until I spotted a flight to Bangkok, confirming it was indeed international.
The Road to Shillong
We opted for a cab to Shillong instead of flying directly. My friend explained that while a cab from Guwahati costs around ?1,000 per person, a direct flight to Shillong would set us back ?5,000 each, plus an entry fee into the city. That settled it - Shillong Airport might be better suited as a museum.
A Chilly Welcome
We left Guwahati at 3 PM in 28?C weather and arrived at Shillong's Police Bazar in a brisk 11?C. The name "Police Bazar" has roots in its original purpose: a market for police officers, later opened to the public.
Arrival in Mawsynram
By 8:30 PM, we reached a village in the Mawsynram subdivision of East Khasi Hills. This was my friend's hometown. The temperature kept dropping, and as someone who uses a blanket even in South Indian summers, I was freezing.
A Warm Welcome
Upon arrival, I was welcomed with warmth - especially from my friend's mother, whose emotional greeting transcended language. I didn't speak Khasi, so I relied on gestures or my friend's translations throughout the trip.
Culture, Customs, and Kway
Life in Mawsynram is simple yet rich in tradition. Unlike the patriarchal norms I grew up with, here, the mother is the head of the household. Chewing betel leaf, or kway, is a cultural staple, governed by etiquette: never chew in front of elders, and never refuse if offered by one. My first try left me dizzy for 20 minutes - but I still brought some back home.
Dining the Khasi Way
Dining customs were different too. While I'm used to sitting cross-legged on the floor, here, meals are taken on small wooden stools. The food was mild, mostly soups with red rice. Since I don't eat all types of meat, the family kindly adjusted their cooking for me. My friend's family is large - nine siblings! - and according to local tradition, the youngest girl inherits the family property. It made me wonder if such customs could reduce inheritance disputes elsewhere.
Matrilineal Magic
In this matrilineal society, when a man marries, he moves into his wife's home and adopts her surname - an empowering reversal of norms I've known.
Christmas in the Hills
This village in Mawsynram is entirely Christian, and I encountered four denominations: Catholic, Presbyterian, Baptist, and one intriguingly referred to as "Trumpism." Even my friends back in Bangalore hadn't heard of that last one. On Christmas Eve, I attended a Presbyterian service. It was serene - no fanfare, just silence and reflection, broken only by a bell that reminded me of the Maxwell bell from The Vampire Diaries.
Sacred Peaks and Folklore
On Christmas morning, I experienced altitude sickness, but my friend's family was incredibly caring. The next day, we hiked to the sacred Lum Sawsymper mountain. Local lore warns that harming nature there brings misfortune. Every New Year's Day, villagers gather around it to cook, eat, and celebrate.
The Tale of Two Mountains
Across from it stands Lum Kyllang. According to legend, the two mountains once hurled rocks and mud at each other. Lum Sawsymper, still lush and green, contrasts sharply with the rocky Lum Kyllang - a visual echo of their mythical battle.
Into the Cave of Stories
We also explored the Synrang Kohlah cave, steeped in folklore. Before entering, visitors must write something with charcoal or lime to avoid being followed by a cave spirit. Naturally, we followed tradition.
Flavors of the Hills
The food in Mawsynram was hearty and comforting - red rice, potato soup with meat, and dried fish chutney, all cooked over wood fires. The momos in Shillong were a revelation, especially the sesame chutneys.
A Land of Waterfalls and Warmth
In the end, every home in this village tells a story. Water flows through every street, and waterfalls and dams dot the landscape. The people are strong, kind, and full of stories - of struggle, resilience, and joy. We visited breathtaking spots like the Seven Sisters Waterfalls, Sohra, Nathaniel Waterfall, and even a natural hot spring.
The Journey Home
On December 31st, we began our return to Guwahati. Our driver took a detour to drop off another passenger for a small fee, stretching our journey to 5.5 hours. Our return flight with Air India Express was delayed twice. Ironically, despite being more expensive than our outbound Air India flight, it offered no complimentary food and was stingy with water.
A Grateful Heart
Having Meghalaya as part of India is a gift. Having a friend from there - and the chance to experience it all firsthand - is a blessing I'll always cherish.
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